The
Tropical Queensland |
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CAIRNS |
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Up
North in beautiful Queensland - the Sunshinestate - is tropical Cairns
- the 'capital' of the far north, which serves as the gateway to e.g.
Cape Tribulation, the unique tropical rainforrest next to the sea.
It's also a centre for a lot of activities like reef trips, scuba
diving and white wter rafting. |
Though
it lacks a beach it has beautiful sunsets |
Cairns
is one of Australia's most popular traveller destination, but unfortunately
the rapid tourists growth har destroyed musch of the city's laid-back
tropical atmosphere. It also lacks a beach, but there a some good
further up north. |
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It's
climatic best -and busiest - to visit from May to october; in
summer the higth humidity can be draining. |
At
the promenade in Cairns
- July 1999 |
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Yammy,
a pizza in the park for dinner. |
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"Bin
möd!" |
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Inland
on the way to Cape Tribulation... |
Getting
away from tourist and party town, we're on the way to Cape Tribulation.
On the way we're passing both through coastline with at pleasant
seabreeze, but also dry and hot inland sceenery.The roads on
our route are mostly gravel roads and there are not many people
around. |
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Taking
the inland road to Cape Tribulation, we're passing Cooktown,
which claims to have been Australia's first british settlement.In
1874, before Cairns was even thought of, Cooktown was the second-biggest
town in Queensland. At its peak there were no less than 94 pubs,
almost as many brothels, and the population was over 30,000. |
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At
black mountain - inland road before Cooktown |
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Climate
The Queensland seasons are more a case of hotter and wetter
or cooler and drier than of summer and winter. November/December
to April/may is the wetter, hotter half of the year, while the
real Wet, particularly affecting northern coastal areas, is
january to March.
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Orchidee |
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Cairns
usually gets about 1300mm of rain in theese 3 months,
while daily temperature in the high 30s. This is also
the seasons for cyclons, and if one hits, the main road
north, Bruce Highway, can be blocked by the ensuing floods.
In the south, Brisbane and Pockhampton both get about
450mm of rain from january to March, and temperatures
in Brisbane rarely drop below 20 degrees. |
Queensland doesn't really get 'cold weather' except at night
inland or upland from about may to September. Inland, of course,
there's also a lot less rain thannear the coast. |
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Shortly
before Cooktown, the road passes Black Mountain, apile of thousands
of granite boulders. It's said that between the huge rocks there
are ways which will take you under the hill from one side to
the other, but people have died trying to find them. Black mountain
is known to Aboriginal people as Kalcajagga -'Place of the Spears'.
The colour comes not from the rocks, but from lichen growing
on them. |
Black
Mountain - July 1999 |
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...like
paradies! |
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THE
CAPE TRIBULATION AREA
After crossing th Daintree River by ferry there's another 34 km of
(almost sealed) road, with a few hills and creeks crossing, to Cape
Tribulation. The road is quite good and unless there has been exceptonal
heavy rain, conventional vihicles can make it easily, with care to
Cape Trib.
Cape Tribulation was named by Captian Cook. In the 70s, much of this
coast was a seldon visited hippie outpost. These days Cape Trib is
much more accessible and there's a steady stream of operators ferrying
tourists up from Port Douglas and Cairns.
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CAPE
TRIBULATION |
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Remember,
however,it's a rainforest, so you'll need to bring mosquito
repellent. |
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It's
no longer quite so isolated, but it's still an incredibly beautiful
stretch of coast, and it's one of the few places in Australia where
tropical rainforrest meets the sea. |
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At
Cape Tribulation - The rainforrest next to the sea
...a bit cloudy,but still amazing. |
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AROUND
CAIRNS
Arriving in Cairns again, we hired a car and drove along the coast from
Cairns to Port Douglas. The coastline north of Cairns is fantastic scenery
with some nice and beautiful beaches along the way. |
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Lars
in our hired MX5 |
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The
beautiful coast north of Cairns |
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PORT
DOUGLAS
In the early days of far north Queensland's development Port
Douglas was a rival for Cairns, but when Cairns eventuallu got
upperhand, Port Douglas became a sleepy backwater. in the mid
80s people, however, rediscovered the delightful little place.People
placed a couple of million dollar resorts, golf courses and
more, that all conduced to a retreat for the rich and fashionable.
Yet, despit all this it has manged to keep a good deal of its
original charm. |
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At
the beach promenade in Port Douglas |
Though
it has a rich and faschionable touch you still find some funny
looking bars in Port, how it's locally known |
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The
Beach at Port Douglas |
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The
final stretch, Cook Highway, from Cairns to Port Douglas is a treat,
because it run right alon the shore and there are some suberb beaches. |
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Move
your mouse over the picture. |
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North
along the the Cook Highway are the Cairns northern beaches,
which really are a string of suburbs. Some of them to mention
are manchans, Holloways, Yorkeys Knob, trinity, Kewarra and
Clifton beaches and Palm Cove.
Trinity is perhaps the best for a short rip out of Cairns.
Palm Cove is an exclusive little resort town with fancy hotels,
expensive boutiques and restaurants.
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Trinity
Beach |
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Move
your mouse over the picture. |
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Magnetic
Island
Travelling down south but still at the North Coast
next stop is Magnetic Island. Tourist came to teh island
more than 100 years ago. Although popular, it remains
a somewhat oldfashioned resort island, with teh main attractions
being the fine beaches, excellent bushwalks, abudant wildlife
as well as laid-back atmosphere. It's also cheap and easy
to get to, being only 8 km offshore from Townsville. |
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Greet
the Koalas! |
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Let's
have a coco for dinner!...-hard work for Lars in
the garden at "Forresthaven"... |
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Overlooking
Geoffrey Bay |
Magnetic Island is one of the largest reef islands (52
sq km) and about half of it is national park. The island
is surrounded by the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, so
there are restrictions on fishing and collecting in some
areas. |
Bremner
Point at Alma Bay |
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"What
a view!" |
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A
Koalas sitting sleepy in the gum trees |
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A
lonely rosala in the garden at "Forresthaven" |
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There are several smal towns along the coast and the island
has a quite different atmosphere to the purely resort
island along the Reef. It's almost an outer suburb of
Townsville, with many of the 2500 residents commuting
to the mainland by ferry. |
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The
Bob...Blackboy palmtree.
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While
bushwalking you meet many of them on the way. |
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Snorkelling
at Alma Bay |
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- a very pleasant and beautiful beach. |
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Islands
at the Great Barrier Reef The true coral islands, or cays,
are on the outer reef or isolated between it and the mainland.
Green Island near Cairns, the Low Isles near Port Douglas, and
Heron Island off Gladstone are all cays. Cays are formed when
a reef is above sea level, even at high tide. Dead coral is
ground down by water action to form sand and, in some cases,
vegetation eventually take root. Coral cays are low-lying, unlike
the often hilly islands closer to the coast. There are about
300 cays on the reef, and 69 are vegetated.
The islands are extremely variable so don't let the catchword
'reef island' suck you in. Most of the popular resort islands
are actually continental islands and some are well south of
the Barrier Reef. Manu continental islands have fringing reefs
as well as other attrations for which a tiny dot-on-the-map
coral cay is simply too small; there may be hills to climb,
bushwalks to explore and secluded beaches. |
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Still
at Alma Bay |
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Goodday
Mate! |
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"Forresthaven"-
Our Residens for the time on the Island...a very nice
and cosy place,eventhough the Guide said the opposite... |
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Rosalas
everywhere |
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Whitsundays
Coast
The Whitsunday Islands, which lie just off the
coast between Mackay and Bowen, are famous for their clear,
aqua-blue waters and forested islands. This is one of the most
beutiful parts of the coast, and there's an extensive range
of activities to choose from, including dive courses, cruises
to and around the island, snorkelling and much more. Mackay
is a major regional centre, while the main access point for
the islands is Airlie Beach,which is a very popular travellers'
hangout, mainly because many companies offering dive courses
and boat trips to the islands operate from here.
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Airlie
Beach, 25 km north-west of Proserpine off the Bruce
Highway, is the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands. It's
small but lively centre that grown phenomenally since
the mid 1980s. The whole town revolves around tourism
and pleasure boating, and it attracts adiverse bunch of
boaties, backpackers and other tourists. It has and excellent
range of budget to mid range accommodation, plenty of
good eateries and a lively nightlife. |
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The
Beach at Airlie Beach- view from a nice American
restaurant. |
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Airlie
Beach also has the reputation as a centre for learning
to scuba dice. A wide assortment of travel agents
and tour operators are based here. Whale watching
boat trips are also posible between July and September.
Despite all of the recent development, Airlie Beach
is stil amll place that has managed to retain something
of its relaxed air. |
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Sunset
at Airlie Beach |
Whitsundays
Curiously, the Whitsundays are misnamed - Captain
Cook didn't really sail through them on Whit Sunday.
When he returned to England, it was found that his
meticulously kept log was a day out because he had
not allowed for crossing the international date
line! As he sailed through the Whitsundays and further
north, Cook was unaware of the existence of the
Great barrier Reef, although he realised that something
to the east of his ship was making the water unusually
calm. It wasn't until he ran aground on the Endeavour
Reef, near Cooktown, that he finally found out about
the reef. |
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In
the Early morning just offshore Hook Island... |
...whales |
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The
Great Barrier Reef The Great Barrier Reef
is 2000 km in length. It starts slightly south
of the Tropic of Capricorn, somewhere out from
Bundaberg or Gladstone, and ends in Torres Strait,
just south of Papua New Guinea. it is not only
the most extensive reef system in the world, but
the biggest structure made by living organism.
At the southern end the reef is up to 300 km from
the mainland, while at the northern end it runs
nearer the coast, is much less broken and can
be up to 80km wide.
In the 'lagoon' between the outer reef and teh
coast, the waters are dotted with smaller reefs,
cays and islands. Drilling on the reef has indicated
that the coral may be more than 500m thick. Most
of the reef is about two million years old, but
there are sections dating back 18 million years.
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Whitsunday
Islands The 74 Whitsunday Islands are probably
the best-known Queensland Islands, and one of Australia's
pleasure-boating capitals. The Islands are most
continental islands - the tips of underwater mountains
- but many og them have fringing coral reefs. The
actual Great Barrier Reef is at least 60km out from
Shute Harbour; Hook Reef is the nearest part of
it. |
View
from the habour at Airlie Beach to the Whitsunday
Islands |
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The
islands - mostly hilly and wooded - and the
passages between them are certainly beautiful, and
while a few are developed with tourists resorts,
most are uninhabited and several offer the chance
of some back-to-nature beach camping and bushwalking.
All but four of the Whitsundays are either predominantly
or completely national park.. The exceptions are
Dent Island, and the resort islands of Hamilton,
Daydream and Hayman. The other main resorts are
on South Molle, Lindeman, Long and Hook Islands. |
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We
went on an organized boat cruise to Whitsunday
Island and Hook Island,where we stop at Whitehaven
Beach, camped on Hook Island,watched the Whales
in the early morning and went diving and snorkelling
at the Reef |
The
pictureous Whitehaven Beach |
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Whitsunday
Island The largest of the Whitsundays, this
island covers 109 sq km and rises to 438m at Whitsunday
Peak. There's no resort, but 6km-lon Whitehaven
Beach on the south-east coast is the longest and
finest beach in the group, with good snorkelling
off its southern end.
Hook
Island Second largest of the Whitsundays,
Hook Island is 53 sq km and rises to a relatively
high 450m at hook Peak. There is a number of beaches
dotted around the island. it's mainly national
park, with camping area.
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Snorkelling... |
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and diving near Hook Island |
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...playing
with big reef fish... |
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What is it? Coral
is formed by a small, primitive animal, a marine
polyp. Some polyps, known as a hard corals, form
a hard surface by excreting lime. When they die,
the hard 'skeletons' remain and these gradually
build up the reef. New polyps grow on their dead
predecessors and continually add to the reef. the
skeletons of hard corals are white; the colours
of reefs come from living polyps.
Coral needs a number of preconditions for healthy
growth. The water temperature must not drop below
17,5 degrees - thus the reef does not continue farther
south into cooler waters- and not exceed more than
2-3 degrees. |
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Fraser
Coast The focal point of this stretch of coast is the majestetic
Fraser Island- at 120 km long it's the world's largest sand
island. Hervey Bay, the major access point for the island, has
grown into a busy tourists centre, while the southern access
point is the sleepy and attractive Rainbow Beach. |
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Fraser
Island Thing to keep in mind about Fraser Island is that
it's all sand.There's no soil, no clay and only two or three
small rocky outcrops. It's one gigantic, 120km by 15km foliated
sand bar - the world's largest, and it was inscribed as such
on the World Heritage List i 1993. The northern half of the
island is protected as the Great Sandy National Park.
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Lake
Mckenzie |
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There
are also about 200 lakes, some of them superb for swimming -
which is just as well since the sea is definite no-go; there
are lethal undertows as well as the odd man-eating shark or
ten. Other wildlife is in abudance, including 40 different mammal
species and more insects and reptiles than you want to know
about. You can camp on Fraser or stay in accomodation. The island
is sparsely populated and although more than 20,000 vehicles
a year pile on to it, it remains wild. A network of sandy tracks
crisscrosses the island and you can drive along great stretches
of beach - but it's 4WD only; there are no paved roads. |
Fraser
Island is a delight for those who love fishing, walking, exploring
by 4WD or for those who simply enjoy nature. Some of the sand
blows (larg drifting dunes) are magnificent, while much of the
island is densely forested with an amazing variety of tree and
plant types, many of hich are only to be found on Fraser. |
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Lars
at an oriental house at the Riverside |
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Brisbane |
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Since
playing host to a string of major international events in the
1980s, including the Commeonwealrh Games and the Expo88, |
Lars
and Natascha at the Brisbane River |
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For
many years Brisbane was viewed by its larger southern cousins
as something of a hickville, an overblown country town. But
it certainly isn't today. |
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View
over Brisbanes Centre from the roof |
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Brisbane
has developed into a lively, cosmopolitan city with several
interesting districts, a good street-cafe scene, a great park,
a busy cultural calender and a decent nightlife - though you'll
need to do some work to find it. Several of Queensland's major
attractions can be reached on day trips from Brisbane. the
Gold and Sunshine coasts and their mountainous hinterlands
are short bus rides from the city.
Although
close to the coast, Brisbane is very much a river city. It's
a scenic place, surrounded by hills and fine lookouts, with
several impressive bridges spanning the Brisbane River. It
also enjoys an excellent climate.
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